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Sayulita is just north of Banderas Bay on the road to Guadalajara. For years, Sayulita was off the grid, known among surfers for its nice beach and slow-peeling breaks. In 2000, a new road put Sayulita 45 minutes from the airport. A land rush ensued, changing the character of the place in a big way. Original pioneers may bemoan the influx of tourists and real estate speculators, but even hippie surfing types probably secretly enjoy the new yuppie comforts, from espresso bars to English newspapers. And while the average age has certainly risen, Sayulita's expat population has to be the coolest breed of retirees you can find anywhere.

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